
A Partnership in Lawn Care
Lawns that are discolored, slow-growing, or have invading weeds or other pest problems may not be properly fertilized. Fertilizer is important for healthy, vigorous plant growth and development. Because many of the required nutrients for turfgrass are found naturally in the soil, fertilization practices focus on the supply of three primary nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen is the only nutrient that turfgrass needs on a regular basis. Lawns may occasionally be deficient in iron, and fertilizers containing iron may be supplemented. As nitrogen is applied, both root and shoot growth increases. If too much nitrogen is applied too frequently, shoots will continue to grow yet root growth will slow, leaving the turf vulnerable to problems.
Soil Testing — Determining the natural fertility of your turf by making a soil test is the first step in developing a turfgrass fertility program. A basic soil test usually includes analysis of soil pH, phosphorus, and potassium levels. Knowing these conditions allows us to make informed decisions regarding other aspects of turf fertilization such as fertilizer application rates and frequencies.
Frequency of Fertilization — If a high-quality turf is desired, greater amounts of mineral nutrients are required than for low-quality turf. Current recommendations from Michigan State University's Extension Service indicate that 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen should be applied per area over the course of the summer. This amount should never be applied all at one time. Decide how many applications you are willing to make and divide up the nutrients needed. You can see that somewhere between 4 and 6 applications are needed to be sure your lawn gets the nutrients it needs to be healthy.
Developing a successful turfgrass fertilization program entails more than an annual early April application of a high-nitrogen fertilizer. It requires both technical knowledge and turf management experience. To develop a total fertilization program, the turfgrass species and growth cycles, the turf's use, the minerals required for growth and development, the soil fertility, fertilizer characteristics, the environmental and management conditions, and the application schedule need to be considered. Village Green considers all these factors in when making the decision on how to fertilize, when to fertilize, and how much to fertilize for every customer we serve.
The overall goal of Village Green to produce healthy turf. Healthy turf will produce the best possible quality lawn under a given set of growing conditions. In addition, healthy turf is usually less reliant on pesticides to achieve a desired quality. One method of producing the healthiest turf possible is to practice Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an approach towards pest control that encourages the use of all possible methods in minimizing pest damage. Village Green is a strong advocate of IPM in lawn care. We know, for example, that a thick, healthy lawn is the best defense against weed, insect and disease infestations. That's why we try to educate our customers about proper watering and proper mowing practices. Meanwhile, we make sure the lawns get the correct amount of fertilizer to encourage the health and density of the lawn.
We never schedule insecticide or fungicide applications unless we have identified that a pest problem is present or is likely to occur. And before we begin a control program, we double-check to be sure all the other aspects (watering, mowing, fertility) are correct. Weeds are controlled using the best possible products as minimally as possible.
IPM is a comprehensive program that requires all involved parties (that means you, your lawn mowing service if you have one, and us) co-operate to achieve the best possible results. Thanks for doing your part with your watering and mowing practices.
Mowing
Mowing Height and Frequency
By mowing frequently and maintaining a uniform turf surface, a neat appearance can be achieved, even at taller heights. Unfortunately, however, a common perception is that a short turf is superior in appearance to tall turf. In reality, turf that is uniform appears neater than uneven turf, regardless of height. Proper height and frequency are the two most important aspects of a mowing your lawn.
Mowing height — Mowing at the appropriate height is important to the health and appearance of your lawn. Turf cut too short usually has a shallow root system, lacks density, and often requires pesticide applications to stave off weed and pest infestations. A lawn mowed at a height of 2 to 3 inches will help keep your lawn healthier and requires less watering and pesticides.
Mowing frequency —Grass grows at different rates depending on weather, management, and species. A basic recommendation is to remove no more than one-third of the grass blade at any one mowing. For example, Kentucky bluegrass being maintained at 2 inches should be mowed when it reaches 3 inches. This “one-third rule” will help maintain maximum turf root growth. Removing more than one-third of the grass blades may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are re-growing.
Other mowing recommendations — Occasionally, personal schedules or weather conditions prevent turf mowing when needed. If this occurs, use the one-third rule. If turf is 6 inches tall, and the desired height is 2 inches, the first mowing should be at 4 inches, or at the highest setting nearest to 4 inches. Several days later, mow again by reducing the mowing height using the one-third rule. This mowing should be lower than 4 inches in height. Continue this pattern until turf is adjusted to the proper height.
Mower blade sharpness - Dull blades tear turf leaving a ragged appearance. Water loss and turf diseases can be greater from ragged leaf edges than from cleanly cut grass leaves. So keep those blades sharp; cleanly cut turf generally looks better and is often healthier than turf with torn leaves.
Mow when grass is dry - Mow when turf is dry. Wet turf may clog the mower or form clumpy masses on the turf’s surface. Avoid early morning when the grass is damp from overnight dew or after a rain fall.
Mowing pattern — Frequent mowing in the same direction or pattern can cause the turf shoots to lean in the direction of cut causing grain to develop. By altering the mowing pattern with each mowing, the turf shoots tend to grow more upright which reduces grain. In addition, altering the mowing pattern changes the position of the mower wheels or rollers at each mowing which can reduce excessive wear in the same location.
Grass Clippings — We encourage leaving the grass clippings on the lawn. Using the one-third rule of mowing is especially important because small leaf portions readily filter to the soil surface and decompose quickly. Returning clippings to the turf has several benefits. It obviously eliminates the need for disposal in landfills and also reduces the time and energy required to transport clippings to composting facilities. When clippings are returned, a small quantity of organic matter and substantial quantities of mineral nutrients are returned to the soil, contributing to improved soil conditions
Clippings and thatch — Clippings are often thought to contribute to thatch build-up. This is not the case. Thatch is composed primarily of turfgrass roots, crowns, rhizomes, sheaths, and stolons. These plant parts contain large amounts of lignin, a waxy substance that decomposes slowly. Turf clippings contain little lignin and are usually composed of at least 75 to 85% water. After drying, short clippings break down quickly, usually with 6-8 weeks. Mowing at proper intervals insures small clipping size and rapid clipping breakdown.
Water is essential for supporting plant life. It is the carrier in which dissolved minerals enter and move about in plants. Water is also necessary for photosynthesis, the chemical conversion of sunlight into carbohydrates, to occur. Plant and environmental cooling also occurs as a result of water release through leaves as vapor. Finally, water has a structural role in maintaining plant turgidity or rigidity; herbaceous plants undergoing water deficit often become limp. Although there are differences among various grasses and plants in their water demands, most lawns and landscape plants normally grown in the north central region will benefit from irrigation that supplements natural precipitation, especially during prolonged heat and drought.
WATERING
Adequate watering during summer is the number one factor that determines whether a lawn is green and growing or brown and dormant. Thus, supplemental irrigation is essential during many summers to maintain green, actively growing lawns.
Aapproximately 1 to 1-1/2 inches of water per week during the growing season is required to maintain green and active growth. Even when turf is watered, the growth slows during summer’s hot, dry days.
When lawns and landscape are properly watered, appearance is maintained and pride of ownership enhanced. In addition, proper irrigation often decreases weed invasion and allows lawn grasses to better tolerate insect and disease pressure. On the other hand, improper irrigation practices—either too much or too little water—can lead to poor lawn grass health and increased weed, insect, and disease problems.
Excessive watering — Too much water is not only wasteful but can also increase turf growth, which requires more frequent mowing. Saturated soil can cause poor soil aeration and, as a result, weaken turf making it vulnerable to diseases and invasions of weeds.
Underwatered — turf becomes open and sparse, developing a poor appearance and allowing weed invasion.
Effective Lawn Watering — Researchers at Michigan State University have found that the old practice of deep and infrequent watering is not the best system for your lawn. The current recommendation is to water your lawn every day, in the late morning, for 30-45 minutes per area. This will give your lawn about 0.1" of water per day. You may have to adjust that recommendation according to your personal situation, but actual experience as shown that even watering every other day for 30-45 minutes give better results than soaking the lawn once a week. Also, be ready to adjust the schedule during times of excessive heat or drought.
If you cannot water in the late morning, choose a time that better fits your schedule, but try not to water after dark. Moist, warm and dark conditions will encourage fungal diseases, something you definitely do not want to have happen.
Water uniformly — Lawns need uniform coverage to maintain their vigor and a healthy appearance. Brown spots in a lawn are often due to uneven coverage. Use a sprinkler system that can provide this coverage.
Water when the top two inches of soil have dried out. Use an object such as a screwdriver to probe your soil and measure the depth of the moisture.
Avoid runoff and puddling by adjusting the amount of water applied during each cycle until the desired amount is applied. On compacted or heavy clay soils, aerify the soil so that water can easily move into it.